Legends and Lore Along the Lewis and Clark Trail

She Who Watches — Tsagaglalal
Columbia Hills State Park | Horsethief Lake Unit | Washington

High above the Columbia River, etched into the basalt cliffs, a mysterious face gazes outward—silent, powerful, and ever watchful. Known as Tsagaglalal, or She Who Watches, this famed pictograph is more than art—it’s a sacred symbol, steeped in legend and Indigenous cultural heritage.

According to Arikara legend, the stones represent two lovers who were forbidden to marry, and their loyal dog who refused to leave their side. All three were turned to stone, immortalized on the prairie as a symbol of love and loyalty. Clark noted in his journal that local tribes honored the site with offerings.

The Legend of She Who Watches

This enduring image represents a central figure in the oral traditions of the Wishram people, part of the Chinookan-speaking tribes of the Columbia River region.

Tsagaglalal was a wise and powerful woman chief who led her people along the river. One day, Coyote, the legendary trickster figure, came to her and declared that the time of female chiefs was ending. He told her she could no longer lead her people in physical form.

To preserve her spirit and presence, Coyote transformed her into stone, saying:
“You shall stay here forever, watching over your people and the river.”

The striking pictograph, with wide, watchful eyes, is believed to be her enduring form—still keeping vigil over the Columbia River today.

She Who Watches paperback, by Willa Holmes 🔗

About the Site

Located in the Horsethief Lake Unit of Columbia Hills State Park, this protected area is home to one of the largest and most significant collections of Native American rock art in North America.

Horsethief Butte towers above the lake, offering dramatic views and basalt formations carved by ancient floods and lava flows.
Horsethief Lake, created by the impoundment from The Dalles Dam.
Pictographs and petroglyphs found here include some of the oldest in the Northwest.

Nearby, the Maryhill Museum of Art and the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center offer insight into the region’s Indigenous cultures and artifacts.

Cultural and Legal Protections

All archaeological sites, rock art, and artifacts in the park are protected by state and federal law. Any disturbance, defacement, or removal is illegal and carries severe penalties.

📸 Note: Photography and visitation of She Who Watches is only permitted through guided tours, out of respect for the cultural significance of the site and to protect it for future generations.

📍Plan Your Visit

Columbia Hills State Park is a 3,300-acre park along the Columbia River, offering hiking, camping, interpretive signage, and access to this remarkable piece of living history.

🔗 Washington State Parks – Columbia Hills

🔗 Area Attractions